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Guide

How to choose a bike lock.

A lock is cheap insurance on an expensive bike. Here's how to buy one that actually holds — and how to use it so the bike is still there when you come back.

Last updated · 2026-06 See something off? Tell us →

The short version: buy a hardened U-lock (or a heavy folding lock), spend a bit more than feels comfortable, and learn to lock the frame and a wheel to something immovable. The lock matters less than how you use it.

Lock types, fastest to most secure

Cable locks look like security and aren’t — bolt cutters or even strong snips go through most in seconds. Use a cable to tie down a wheel or saddle, never as your main lock.

Cable
Hardened U-lock

The marker is the floor worth buying: a good folding lock. Anything to its left (cable, cheap combos) is a deterrent, not real security; compact hardened U-locks and thick hardened chains sit further right.

The three worth buying:

U-lock (D-lock)

The standard
  • Hardened shackle resists bolt cutters and leverage
  • Compact leaves no room for a tool inside
  • Most security for the weight

Folding

Everyday middle ground
  • Packs down small, carries easily
  • The good ones are seriously tough
  • A little less secure than a U-lock

Chain

Park it and leave it
  • Thick, hardened chain is very secure
  • Good for a bike that lives outside
  • Heavy for daily carrying

What “secure enough” means

Sold Secure · Bronze → Diamond ART · Netherlands

Don’t judge a lock by its marketing. Look for an independent security rating: in the UK, Sold Secure (Bronze, Silver, Gold, Diamond); in the Netherlands, ART. These bodies actually attack the locks — a higher rating means more time and noise to defeat, which is the whole game, since a thief wants neither.

A rough rule of thumb: spend around 10–20% of the bike’s value on locking. On an e-bike or anything expensive, go up a tier and consider two different locks (a U-lock plus a folding lock or chain) so a thief needs two tools.

How to lock it (this matters more than the lock)

  • Lock to something fixed and solid — a proper bike rack bolted to the ground, not a flimsy sign or a post the bike can be lifted over.
  • Put the U-lock through the frame and the rear wheel, around the rack. The rear wheel is the expensive one.
  • Fill the space inside the U-lock with bike and rack — less air, less room for a tool.
  • If your front wheel or saddle is quick-release, take it with you or secure it with a cable or a second lock.
  • Point the keyhole down or inward so it’s harder to attack, and lock the bike where it’s busy and well-lit.

What no lock can promise

  • No lock is unbeatable — a thief with time and the right tool wins. Aim to be slower and louder to steal than the next bike.
  • A cheap lock on an expensive bike is a false economy, and so is a great lock used badly.
  • Register your bike’s serial number and photograph it. It won’t stop a theft, but it helps recovery and insurance.

This guide covers durable, well-established lock advice; the security-rating schemes named (Sold Secure, ART) are independent testing bodies you can verify directly.

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