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Guide

Fitting mudguards.

Full-length mudguards are what let a commuter ride in ordinary clothes through the wet, and fitting them is a patient afternoon with a hex key. This covers choosing the right pair and setting them up so nothing rubs.

Last updated · 2026-07 See something off? Tell us →

Mudguards are the fitting that turns a fair-weather bike into an all-weather one. They stop the stripe of cold, gritty water that a moving tire throws straight up your back, keep the road muck off the drivetrain, and are the reason a Dutch commuter can ride to work in a wool coat and think nothing of it. Fitting a set well takes patience rather than skill, and once they’re on you’ll forget they’re there, right up until the first wet day, when you’ll be very glad of them.

Two kinds, and the gap between them

The choice is between proper full-length guards and quick clip-on ones, and it’s mostly a trade of coverage against convenience.

Full-length

Real coverage, some fitting
  • Wrap most of the wheel, front and rear
  • With a mudflap, they keep you and the bike properly dry
  • Quiet, permanent, and out of the way once set
  • Need frame clearance and, ideally, mounting eyelets
  • Take an afternoon to fit properly

Clip-on

Fits anything, covers less
  • Clamp to the seatpost or fork in minutes, no eyelets needed
  • Easy to move between bikes or take off in summer
  • The answer for a frame with no clearance or fittings
  • Cover a shorter arc, so more spray gets through
  • Do little for your feet or the rider behind you

Check it will fit before you buy

Full-length guards only work if the bike has room for them, so a two-minute check saves a wasted purchase. Look for two things: clearance and fittings.

Fitting them

The job itself is straightforward if unhurried. Work one wheel at a time, and expect to adjust everything twice.

  1. Mount the guardBolt the guard to the frame and fork points, or the bridge behind the bottom bracket, loosely at first.
  2. Set an even gapAdjust so the guard follows the curve of the tire with the same small gap all the way round.
  3. Fix the staysSecure the wire stays at the dropout eyelets, keeping the guard centred, then tighten everything.
  4. Trim and checkCut off the excess stay past the bolt so nothing sharp sticks out, then spin the wheel to check for rub.

Take your time with the even gap, because a guard that touches the tire on one side will rub, tick, or wear through. If a stay end is left long, trim it and file the cut smooth: a protruding stay is a snag hazard.

The mudflap does the real work

The part most people skip is also the one that matters most.

Living with them

Fitted well, mudguards ask almost nothing of you. Every so often a stay works loose and starts to tick, and a quick nip with a hex key settles it. Clear out any twig or leaf that lodges between guard and tire before it scores a line in the paint. That’s about the whole of it. For the broader wet-weather picture, riding in rain and cold and rain gear that actually works cover what to wear, the finishing kit covers the other everyday fittings, and the mudguard glossary names the types if you’re unsure what you’re looking at.

Worth the fiddly afternoon

Mudguards are unglamorous and slightly annoying to fit, and they change wet-weather riding more than almost anything else you can bolt on. Spend the afternoon, add the mudflap, and a rainy commute stops being a reason to take the car and becomes just another ride, in the clothes you were already wearing.

This guide covers durable fitting principles, not specific models. Clearances, eyelet standards, and guard sizes vary by bike and tire, so match the guards to your tire width and frame, and a bike shop can fit a tricky frame if yours resists.

A tidy mudguard fit

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